This is a brand new set of 1968-1982 Corvette Power Window Motors
- You receive a set of TWO- Left hand LH (driver side) and right hand RH (passenger side).
- These motors fit MANY other GM applications.
- A good ground is essential for the proper operation of this window motor! If the operation is "slow"- please troubleshoot this first as this is the "problem" 90% of the time. It is difficult to get a good ground on a fiberglass-bodied vehicle.
- Designed to meet or exceed OEM.
- Includes motor gear and adapter harness (pigtail).
- Quality factory original reproduction.
- Our decades of excellent customer service on show in our response.
- Please contact us if there is a problem, and we will do our best to make it right.
IMPORTANT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Because C3 Corvettes have fiberglass bodies, a poor electrical ground is the single most common reason for slow, weak, or completely dead power windows. Unlike a steel car, where you can bolt a component anywhere to ground it, the Corvette requires a dedicated grounding circuit back to the steel chassis.
Here is how to troubleshoot and ensure your window motor has a perfect ground during installation.
1. Inspect the Motor Ground Strap
The factory power window motor relies on a small, brass or copper ground strap that is riveted directly to the motor casing.
The Issue: This strap extends over one of the three mounting holes. When you bolt the motor to the steel regulator plate, the bolt pinches this strap, supposedly completing the ground circuit through the regulator.
The Fix: Before mounting the motor, use a wire brush or scotch-brite pad to clean the surface of this strap and the mating surface on the regulator. If it’s covered in paint, rust, or old grease, the ground will fail.
2. Verify the Door Harness Ground Wire
Because the regulator itself sits inside a fiberglass door, the regulator plate must be grounded back to the car's frame.
The Setup: There is a black wire in the door's wiring harness that connects to a terminal on the inner door structure (usually attached to one of the main regulator mounting bolts or a door pillar support). This wire runs out of the door through the rubber accordion conduit at the hinges and attaches to a main ground point under the dashboard or on the birdcage.
The Fix: Locate this black wire's eyelet inside the door. Remove the screw/bolt, clean the metal eyelet and the mounting surface down to bare metal, and reattach it firmly.
3. The "C3 Power Window Upgrade" (The Bypass Test)
If your windows are still crawling after cleaning the factory points, you can easily test for a bad ground—or permanently upgrade the circuit—by creating a direct ground jumper.
How to Diagnose a Bad Ground Instantly:
Take a standard jumper wire with alligator clips.
Clip one end directly to a clean, unpainted spot on the window motor casing or the brass ground strap.
Clip the other end to a known, solid chassis ground outside the door (like a door hinge bolt or the striker bolt on the door jamb).
Operate the window switch. If the window suddenly shoots up and down with full speed and power, your factory grounding circuit is failing.
How to Fix it Permanently:
If the inner door harness ground is compromised inside the dash and you don't want to tear the interior apart, you can run a new, dedicated ground wire:
Run a new 12- or 14-gauge wire from one of the motor mounting bolts, through the rubber door conduit, and attach it directly to a clean screw on the steel birdcage/A-pillar under the kick panel or dash. This bypasses the old, high-resistance factory wiring completely.
